Ancient Cathage and Modern Tunis | Courtesy Osama Siddique
This is about us. However, it is not about our forestation or rather de-forestation policies. Or our development projects that massacre foliage. Or our official and unclean love for morbid combinations of cement, plastic, plaster and metal. It is also not about tsunamis as those are destructive. Though despite our usual cynicism and parochial critique and the unfortunate name I laud the billion tree tsunami endeavor in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Whatever the number they prioritized the area and went ahead and planted so many trees. So kudos to Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf for that. But do let’s keep aside policy and implementation successes and failures for the moment. I am not one to usually engage in self-loathing but what intrigues me here are we as people and our acutely fractured relationship with trees. Why do we hate them so?
I don’t speak here of the majority consumed by the ordeal of making a living in a deeply inequitable system while retaining their dignity. I speak instead of the well heeled, the well traveled, the well exposed, and the ostensibly well informed. I comment on those with power and privilege.
What amazes me is how we appear to have such few people of taste and discernment left in influential positions – and on that score there is no civil-military imbalance. They are similarly bereft of sensibility. But why? After all, many of our military (and civilian) leaders cherish and sustain their rural links. They can speak glowingly of glorious childhoods under the cool shades of the village neems, shireen, dharek and taali. Why did more ‘copse’ commanders not emerge from this lot – any defenders of ancient trees? After all great pride is taken in tree-lined colonial cantonments. They also had equal share in direct rule over the country.
Let’s look at other elites. A vast section of the powerful clan of Aitchisonian get misty-eyed at the mention of the grand avenues of trees and the majestic old banyans and peepal of their school. Where are they? These people who routinely travel far and wide and witness how cities are now gauged and ranked according to their tree cover, urban foliage, park spaces and gardens. They gush over it. They take pictures. They never try and replicate it – institutionally, socially, individually – at least not beyond their manicured lawns. Is there a link between the rampant apathy displayed when trees are cut down in our cities, when ugly, meritless, imported invasive species introduced, and when unsightly fountains and plaster structures displace an ancient trees, home to a hundred species and a refuge for thousands of pedestrians and to how we see and define ourselves? Which part of the brain malfunctions, as we don’t register the contradiction between what we are nostalgic about and what we don’t lift a finger to resist? Why does the heart not ache when a sublime tree falls?
Those who are very different on this score surround us. I shall not speak here of Sydney, Madrid, Munich or Oslo or the other great metropolises of the world that deeply value nature, greenery, verdurous spaces and the tree canopy. Arguably there is much else about these places that contributes.
Let’s look east. For here the challenges of development led urbanisation, population growth, urban migration, resource constraints, and ecological and environmental obliviousness can often be common. Many Asian metropolises are equally hapless as ours. There are, however, far too many glorious exceptions to ignore. Over the past years I have visited some of them and here are my impressions.
Hanoi in developing Vietnam also faces the aforementioned challenges. Yet visit the densest quarters of downtown and witness diverse tree lined avenues, tree-encircled lakes, and leafy rain screening canopies for outside eateries where the Vietnamese constantly dine on those wonderfully delicate, mint and lemon grass infused soups and noodles. Go to Angkor Wat in once genocide ravaged Cambodia. Not just the ancient overgrown temples dotted across hundreds of acres but also some of the tallest and grandest trees I have seen, lovingly protected, that conjure the magic, attracting millions of global visitors.
Bangkok continues to face its urban growth challenges and yet no one can describe it as denuded of its tree cover. Chiang Mai in the north is even greener.
In Sri Lanka trees are of course in the realm of the sacred. Along the vast old tree covered parks surrounding a grand stupa in ancient Anuradhapura, a wide avenue leads to a shrine built around a gigantic peepal – perhaps the oldest living tree and said to have emerged from a sapling from the original Ficus Religiosa that shaded the Lord Buddha – a sapling that came with Buddhism itself to the serendipitous island. Go to Peradeniya, Galle, Kandy or Colombo or any other place on the island and you will find the people and not just the state taking pride in ancient trees occupying prominent urban spots. Architecture often recedes to give way to a tree; trees grow through roofs and I am not talking of Geoffrey Bawa structures. This small, lovely country displays a very large heart and vision. A vision green and regenerative and worth emulating.