The Hindu temple of Katas Raj in Kahoon Valley, Punjab | Photos by Murtaza Ali, White Star
Kahoon was once a beautiful valley. It was covered with trees and shrubbery as far as the eye could see. A Hindu temple complex, known as Katas Raj, has been sitting in its midst since time immemorial, an isolated but pleasing site to contemplate. The ancient ruins of the temples overlook a large pond full of clear water — always the colour of the sky above.
Farming here was limited to small, rain-irrigated patches of land. The means of communication were scant and other sources of livelihood non-existent — except Khewra’s famous salt mines, about 20 kilometres to the south of the valley. Most young men from the valley would join the army. Most women would stay at home.
Limestone mining from the plateau of Punjab’s Salt Range, which includes Kahoon valley, was the first indicator that the area’s pristine natural environment might be endangered one day. The mining was followed by the setting up of cement plants that use limestone as their basic raw material. The first one was set up near the village of Gharibwal in the early 1960s — 42 kilometres to the east of the valley. Another one was set up in the early 1970s in Dandot, halfway between Katas Raj and the salt mines.
The valley still managed to retain its bucolic charm.
Today, many roads crisscross over it. The Lahore-Islamabad Motorway is a short distance to the west and a highway linking the motorway with the town of Choa Saidan Shah passes through the heart of the valley. Three more cement factories now dot the area. They are all located within a 15-kilometre radius of the temple complex, each with its own limestone quarry.
The factories have brought air pollution. They have also changed the demographic profile of the area, from a pastoral-rural one to a semi-urban industrial one. But perhaps more importantly, they have damaged the underground water table in the valley to the extent that the pond at Katas Raj has been lying dry for two years now.
Hundreds of turbines, running on electricity in the villages across the valley to extract groundwater for potato farming, have only exacerbated the problem.
“Water is becoming scarce in our area,” says 65-year-old Muhammed Ismail Malik, a resident of Waulah village, hidden behind the sprawling premises of the Bestway Cement factory. One of the largest in the country, the factory was set up during the government of General Pervez Musharraf.
About 10 years ago, Malik returned to his village after working in Qatar for decades. He saw that the water table was going down but local residents were too engrossed in their political rivalries to take note. The government, too, seemed indifferent.
“Every time we asked the local administration to focus on the problem, the officials were reluctant. They feared people would be angry if the government started regulating groundwater extraction [since it could also hurt their farming],” he says.
The village, in the meanwhile, was not getting enough water even for domestic use. Most villagers did not have the money to install turbines that could extract water from the rapidly diminishing aquifers. Malik collected money from the villagers to install and run a local water supply system.
It worked for a couple of years until 2010 when the water reached a level that was no longer accessible through the turbines Malik had installed. He approached a former general -- who also came from Waulah and was well connected with senior authorities in Lahore – for help.
These efforts resulted in the approval of a water supply project, but a year passed by and it was not implemented. The villagers threatened to protest in front of a delegation of Indian Hindus coming to visit Katas Raj. The government buckled and provided 27.5 million rupees to set up two turbines and two tanks to store water. The villagers were required to keep the turbines running by paying the price of the electricity they consumed — costing each household roughly 400 rupees each month.
Waulah’s water shortage was thus resolved, albeit temporarily. The groundwater is receding further and may soon require bigger and more powerful turbines to extract it. This will necessitate further investment by the government and higher electricity payments by the villagers.
It is obvious that the problem requires a more sustainable solution. When the Supreme Court of Pakistan took notice of a news report about the Katas Raj pond having dried up in November 2017, many thought a durable solution might soon be found.