Illustration by Zehra Nawab
When you are coming down the Islamabad Expressway, finding Bahria Town can be a bit like finding an oasis in a desert. The suburban labyrinth rests behind an array of misleading mirages. Apart from the signboard that points to a Bahria Town exit, the expressway is dotted with signs to other housing projects such as Media Town, DHA Valley, the Naval Anchorage and Gulberg Greens — all self-explanatory; the last one especially making it a point to live up to its name. Once off the expressway, you still have to pass through the length of another housing scheme to get to Bahria Town’s barrier-laden entrance — this last one by the Pakistan Public Works Department (PWD) which maintains and develops properties owned by the federal government.
Alternatively, the path from Rawalpindi is more straightforward. The nine phases of Bahria Town which are spread over two separate compounds straddle the Grand Trunk Road just a little south of where Rawalpindi’s city limits end.
Inside the gates, the never-ending sectors and undulating roads, the scarce traffic and abundant space can be extremely disorienting. If you are a first-time visitor, you can be forgiven for thinking this expansively designed neighbourhood is Islamabad’s actual twin city, and Rawalpindi just an unplanned appendage.
With commerce at the centre of this enterprise, the promise of a sealed and secure community – that Bahria Town and its numerous clones offer – is a bit duplicitous.
Driving on Bahria Town’s carpeted tarmac is a fairly docile affair after negotiating the violent potholes and sadistically narrow roads that pervade most of Pakistan. The sculptures of farm animals dotting the roundabouts stay mercifully in place, unlike the free roaming cattle outside. These are merely the fringe benefits of buying an accommodation in what could easily be called Pakistan’s most self-sufficient and luxurious gated community.
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There is a riding range for those who have always felt congested city streets do not offer enough galloping room for horses. There is a golf course for those who have never been particularly fond of stirrups and there is a cinema with reclining sofas for those who don’t even like walking. There are health clubs, hospitals, playgrounds and even a cricket stadium in Phase 8, a phase bigger than the first six phases combined. So large, in fact, that it’s possible to take a wrong turn while traversing it and end up in New York somehow. For, beyond an avenue lined with palm trees, there is a Statue of Liberty looking just as confused about being there as you might be about seeing her. There is also an imitation Eiffel Tower on the other end of the same phase. Because, well, why not?
In Bahria Town’s Lahore iteration, Greco-Roman columns greet you at the main gates. You can almost imagine Julius Caesar strolling down them, on his way to file a complaint at the Bahria Customer Care and Support Center.If you think this is all a bit excessive, I probably shouldn’t mention the Sphinxes.
While Bahria Town has expanded to other cities (the one in Lahore has been functional for a while and construction has started in Karachi and Nawabshah, and is expected to start soon in Hyderabad and Peshawar), the one next to Rawalpindi/Islamabad is still the oldest and most densely populated. It claims to be housing 100,000 people as of now.
Early residents remember it largely being a jungle even 10 years back. The visual trajectory from green to grey has been rapid; one week there would be four-legged creatures running around and the next week four-wheeled vehicles.
Realtors say they primarily deal with business people or retired civil and military officials. The former because they don’t need to hit a nine-to-five job in city centres — which can be a very long commute from Bahria Town; the latter because they get service benefits which they can use or sell to buy a house in this enclave. Selling a service allotment in Islamabad, for instance, will comfortably pay for a house in Bahria Town. Property is cheaper this far away from a city — which is the entire point.
Property dealers also say they run offices abroad; Bahria Town, too, has its corporate offices in the United States, the United Kingdom and the United Arab Emirates. Expatriate Pakistanis who have accumulated a certain amount of wealth, have gotten used to a certain standard of living and now wish to keep a house in their country of origin, are inevitably attracted to Bahria Town’s lavish infrastructure and the uninterrupted supply of electricity.
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“Candlelight dinners are most enjoyable when they are not forced,” is how Bahria Town advertises its ability to keep the lights on.
Where the rest of the country gets blackouts, Bahria Town’s residents get backup supply from a 12-megawatt generator which will soon be upgraded to 50 megawatts. The cost of this additional electricity is only one or two rupees per unit over what the outside world pays for this embattled amenity.
Bahria Town also has garbage trucks, fire tenders, a dedicated water supply, sewage disposal system, emergency rescue services, close-circuit television cameras and uniformed guards patrolling the streets — all of this provided at nominal maintenance rates that hover around 4,000 rupees a month. Not to mention the malls, the restaurants, the bowling alleys, the super stores and the hotels. This is what drives the commercial heart of Malik Riaz’s concrete republic.