Traffic congestion near Nazimabad, Karachi | Tahir Jamal, White Star
On an unusually hot day last month, Maryam Zulfiqar, a 25-year-old student, is riding a bus to go to a private institute on Karachi’s Tipu Sultan Road where she studies Arabic language. She left her home in Future Colony within the city’s southeastern working-class area, Landhi, at 8 am. It normally takes her at least an hour – provided there are no traffic jams – to complete the 15-kilometre journey. At 5 pm, she will travel back: same route, same distance but in the opposite direction.
Also read: We are destroying Karachi's greatest defense against ocean storms
Zulfiqar is angry at the way bus drivers behave. They show very little patience, both in their driving and in dealing with passengers, and are not helpful when you make a complaint, she says. She is also unhappy about the lack of safety on buses and the unavailability of seats, especially for women, children and the elderly. “Sometimes so many people get on the bus that the men start pushing their way into the women’s section,” says Zulfiqar. In the past few years, she claims, bus owners have also reduced the number of seats reserved for women. “We find no place to sit and there is nobody to assist us,” she says angrily. “The elderly and children are also not considered important passengers because the buses have to slow down to let them get on and off.”
Clara has mastered the art of negotiating these problems, perfected over years of travelling on public transport in Karachi. In her mid-fifties now, she climbs on to a bus on a recent weekday with an ageless swiftness and finds a seat in the women’s section. She has been travelling on the same route for almost 17 years — taking a bus from Malir Cantt, close to the Jinnah International Airport, heading to the Pakistan Air Force Museum on Sharae Faisal where she works as a janitor.
There are, indeed, too many vehicles on the roads — even when thenumber of buses has decreased.
Clara, however, makes only part of her journey on the bus. She uses either an autorickshaw or a motorcycle rickshaw to travel the eight to 10 kilometres between her home and Malir Cantt. The time she requires for her two-way daily journey, about 37 kilometres long, depends, mostly, on the way the bus moves. “If [the driver] keeps slowing down at every small stop then we keep getting stuck in traffic which results in me reaching my destination in 45 minutes,” she says.
The bus that Clara takes every day picks up commuters from Mohammad Khan Colony in Orangi Town, located on the north-western part of Karachi, moves across the city diagonally and finally stops at Hazrat Bilal Colony, the largest neighbourhood in the Korangi area to the south-east. The bus makes stops at several major areas, including Nazimabad, Hassan Square, Karsaz, Drigh Road and Malir. It drives past the traffic and mayhem of Quaidabad, moves through Landhi and lurches towards its last stop in Korangi. Travelling this entire 31-kilometre route takes at least two hours.
Clara is happy, though. “If it were not for this bus, how would I get to work?” she asks with a smile. A mother of seven and a grandmother to “numerous grandchildren”, she needs to keep working and feels blessed that the bus helps her do that, costing only 30-40 rupees for a round trip.
Strikes and political unrest in the city highlight the importance of buses even further for commuters like Clara who then either have to stay home or use costlier means of transport such as autorickshaws and taxis. Transporters keep their vehicles off the roads in uncertain situations because Karachi has a long and tragic history of transport-related violence. A college girl’s death in 1985 after she was hit by a bus and the subsequent riots, in which scores were killed and hundreds of vehicles set on fire, was the first instance.